I ended up with free time today, unexpectedly, so it was off to Norvin Green State Forest; a place I’ve wanted to hike. Originally, I planned to do about seven miles; but called an audible and climbed Carris Hill. Starting out today, I drove through fog and drizzle, and expected rain later in the day. Fortunately, the rain held off, and the sun came out after lunch. The pictures of the views would have been much better had I gotten to them in the afternoon.
Trails are, for the most part, soft dirt; but it’s New Jersey, and you can’t forget two scoops of rocks.
I was the fifth car in the lot by 8:30, when I returned, the lot was packed.
It was off on the Otter Hole trail.
Eventually, that junctions with the Hewitt Butler and Highlands trail, which I took until that merged with the Wyanokie Circular trail. This was the route to Wyanoki High Point. It was here that I ran into the most amount of people – most going to the High Point and back. There were multiple views just going to the High Point.
There were a couple of nice scrambles all throughout the forest. This one was just before the High Point.
I didn’t stay at the High Point long as there were a lot of people up there. But the views were fantastic – and would have been better when the sun came out after noon.
Leaving Wyanokie High Point sent me deeper into the forest and for the most part, away from people. I took the Lower trail, with the intention of finding Chikahoki Falls.
When I junctioned with the Carris Hill trail I sat for a moment to think. It was here that I changed my plans and decided to climb Carris Hill. I really wasn’t sure when I would come back, it was early, and I figured I could have lunch at the top.
There were lots of good views from this trail.
And lots of other scenery.
I thought the Carris Hill trail the most difficult trail in the forest. At the top it was time for lunch, though it wasn’t quite noon. After eating, I looked up, and noticed these guys waiting for me to keel over.
I came down the Hewitt Butler / Highlands trail finding these Honey mushrooms along the way.
When the trail junctioned with the Lower trail I backtracked to the Chikahoki Falls, which didn’t have a lot of water going over it. In fact, I stood in a dry section, where you could tell the water would normally be, probably in the Spring after the rains.
I walked back to the Hewitt Butler / Highlands trail and took that all the way to the Otter Hole trail.
With a desiccated puffball next to it.
I walked past the Otter Hole trail to go take a look at the Otter Hole.
Then, it was 2.3 miles on the Otter Hole trail back to the car.
The Otter Hole trail is mostly a woods road, and alternates between nice flat, soft trails, and punishing rocks.
I really liked the forest and will come back to do some of the northern trails, and maybe Stonetown Circular one day. You’ll find most people around Wyanokie High Point, and with good reason – the views are great. But, you can hike in solitude on many of the other trails.
But also look here and here for improvements and changes.
Hike Distance 7.7 Miles
Trails: Bearfort Ridge, Ernest Walter, Appalachian, State Line
Note on trails: See the extra maps above. What was known as the Quail Trial/Jimmy Glick trail appears to have been renamed to make up the Bearfort Ridge Loop. Also, as of now (September 2020) The Bearfort Ridge Loop trail has been reblazed a lime green color. It looks like there will be a new trail as well. Bearfort Ridge used to be white.
I was blessed with another perfect day to go out, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky all day. It was in the low 50s when I left home, yet high 40s when I got to the trailhead. As I might not be able to hike for a couple of weeks, this was a great way to go out. This route has been on my list for a while as it is described in 50 Hikes in New Jersey; the next time I go, I may try Terrace Pond to the south.
This was a long day though; I was not prepared for the amount of scrambling I would be doing. when I come back, I may just do the loop for the views. However I highly recommend this hike.
Starting out, the trails are fairly wide, and soft dirt. It wouldn’t be north Jersey without rocks. And lots of rocks. There were lots of trees down, but the trail is well maintained.
I went left when the Bearfort Ridge trail split as I wanted to head up to the Appalachian trail before I got to Surprise Lake. The trail heads up steeply, then sort of levels out as you near the ridge. I felt like walking on the ridge was like walking on someone’s spine. There were plenty of rock scrambles, each affording it’s own view.
Right near the top of the ascent, I noticed a big rock to my left and scrambled up that for a great view to the south / southwest. Coming down that I was faced with:
I was glad to have to go up that, and not down. However, there was more to come. This was a good scramble, and with a crazy good view as the payoff.
It seemed every scramble had a view, and I was blessed with great weather. Walking northwards on the ridge was pleasant with multiple scrambles and rocks to walk along.
I came to a swamp with a large rock that seems to have been detached from the rest of the rock.
When the Bearfort Ridge trail junctioned with the Ernest Walter trail, I went left, through a small field, then to some large rocks. Fortunately, I was going down. Here’s a shot looking back up.
Just beyond, I ran into a group of three, and warned them of what they were going to have to go up. They mentioned that I had a big rock in store for me that they just came up. I didn’t think I would have anything more difficult than the above. They were right. I don’t have any pictures (I didn’t want to stick around) but I basically came to a twelve foot cliff that had two spots that sort of looked like steps. After not finding a way around this, I chucked my trekking poles down, slid out on the ledge, kind of twisted over and lowered myself down. I regret not getting a picture, but I was more content on getting out of that spot.
Eventually, I junctioned with the Appalachain trail, and saw one thru/section hiker going by. While waiting for a large-ish group of hikers to come scrambling down some rocks, I found a pretty cool looking web.
Scrambling up wasn’t too bad, though the rocks were in the sun and I thought about snakes sunbathing on top. I figured the snakes would be gone after the group I waited for had left.
I met up with the State Line trail. However, I wanted to see how far New York was up the Appalachian Trail. It was much shorter than I expected.
The State Line trail mostly descended until it junctioned back up with the Ernest Walter trail. Then it was a mad climb back up the Ernest Walter. Again the payoff would be worth it as there expansive views of Greenwood Lake. My pictures cannot do it justice. There was a long walk on a large rock and view kept getting better and better as I climbed. Stitch these next two pictures together.
It would be easy to sit on the rock and look at the view, but I was hungry and wanted to eat at Surprise Lake, a glacial lake.
And then it was down on the old Quail Trail, now part of the Bearfort Ridge Loop.
Many of the rocks were covered with Smooth Rock Tripe. It was all over the place.
There were a couple of water crossings, mostly dried up, a few with trickling water. This would probably be much more interesting in the Spring after the rains.
Finally, it was back to where the connector trail led to the parking lot.
This was an awesome hike; it didn’t hurt that I had absolutely phenomenal weather. I highly recommend this; though if you are going to do the Ernest Walter trail be prepared for some big scrambles. It seemed that every facet of the this trail was awesome, there were no dull parts. And for the most part, it is one big view.
Another great day and another great hike. As I got to the trailhead, it was 59 degrees out, and I was the fourth car. I seriously debated starting with a jacket on, but packed it – and after a few minutes, I was thankful. I started with the Blue trail (Falling Waters trail) to head to the falls. Just before the trail descended, I was able to get this picture of Lake George:
Just by the dam, the trail starts down – be prepared, this is rocky and steep in sections. It was perfect weather on my hike; I can only imagine this section on the wet rocks or with ice. However, the falls are awesome. You can scramble all over the rocks to get all kinds of views. It was nearing 60 degrees, had this been August with high heat and humidity, I might have taken a dip.
The Falling Waters trail follows Electric Brook beneath the falls. There are ruins of the old power station, but I did not find them. I followed the trail until the fence marking private property, where the trail bears left and goes straight up hill. At the top of the hill you will come to a junction of many trails and the end of the Falling Waters trail. There will be rocks on your right, walk out those for a view.
The map shows a point of interest that comprises a big rock outcropping. Even though I was making a big loop, I took the Pink trail (not named) to its end where it junctions with the Grand Loop trail. The Pink trail is more a woods road, so, wide with lots of crushed gravel. There is an unmarked trail to the right which shortly leads to the rocks.
Behind the rocks there should be a view, but with the leaves on the trees, there wasn’t much to see. I took Pink back to the junction.
At the junction, I turned left onto a White and Teal Trail (Patriot’s Path and the Highlands trail.) This I took to Fairview Avenue.
Along the way there was a junction and a sign for a Green trail, not named, but shown, on my map. On the sign was tacked “most difficult.” After walking about 100 yards I came to sign that said trail’s end, and a cliff. The map showed more trail, but I couldn’t find where it went, I must have missed it. Because what I walked was flatter than the Falling Waters trail. When I come back, I will have to further explore.
I got back on Patriot’s Path/Highland trail and took that to the parking lot at Fairview Avenue, where I would make a left onto the Yellow Dot trail (Beeline trail.) Approaching this junction and parking lot is where I ran into more people – this is a fairly busy lot. This trail has some steep sections as it climbs onto the back section of Schooleys Mountain. Junction with the Yellow (Grand Loop trail) and continue.
I rested at the junction of Red (High Cut) but stayed on Yellow to get back to the Orange (Upland Meadow trail.) Orange cuts through two meadows filled with plenty of wild flowers and trees, bird houses, and lots of crickets. Under a big tree I stopped for a snack though I was mostly done. The sun was out, and felt great as it pushed the temperatures into the upper 60s.
I walked back on Yellow to Red to cross over the top of Schooleys Mountain. Following my GPS, I estimated the summit to be right here:
It gets a little squirrlly at the top, I lost the trail a couple of times; and I suspect I wasn’t the only one. It doesn’t help when I find blazes in the following locations:
Red junctions with Yellow (again) and I took Yellow back to the car. This portion of the trail is a wide woods road of crushed gravel.
And just before my car I got one more picture of Lake George.
This was a great hike. By the time I got back to my car, there were more cars there and more people out and about. This is a really nice park, as are all of the Morris County parks I’ve hiked in. The trails are well maintained, well blazed and provide great maps (though print your own, there were none at the trailhead.)
(a note on my map, I forgot to un-pause GPS after sitting, but I essentially retraced my steps.)
There’s a lady who’s sure All that glitters is gold And she’s buying a stairway to Heaven When she gets there she knows If the stores are all closed With a word she can get what she came for Oh oh oh oh and she’s buying a stairway to Heaven
Like the famous song, this hike is usually listed in the top three hikes of New Jersey. The scenery is gorgeous. The boardwalks and suspension bridge are great. The “Stairway to Heaven” portion of the the Appalachian Trail is steep and rugged, but the payoff is totally worth it.
This had been on my to do list for a long time; but since I knew it was such popular hike I had to find the right time to do it. The Sunday of Labor Day seemed as good as any. Be warned, parking is crazy: lots are small, the parking on the road in the Pochuk Valley is limited, and the local towns are fierce with their ticketing. I left the house at 6:00 in the morning, figuring if I got there “too early” I could nap. I was the 5th car by the boardwalks, arriving at 8:00. But, I couldn’t nap, so I headed out.
This hike is an out an back. From Pinwheel Vista at the top of Wawayanda Mountain, retrace your steps. I’ve divided this hike up into three sections: The Pochuck Valley boardwalk, the middle, and Stairway to Heaven, with the terminus at Pinwheel Vista.
There’s a sign on the wall But she wants to be sure ‘Cause you know sometimes words have two meanings In a tree by the brook There’s a songbird who sings Sometimes all of our thoughts are misgiving
The first section contains the boardwalks of Pochuck Valley, and there were plenty of people just walking the boards. It was 59 degrees when I started, and the temps were only supposed to get into the low 70s. Boardwalks are easy going, and I made the best time here. But the scenery is incredible; lots of wild flowers. There were tons of crickets, making a symphony of noise. Bozza’s Aria it wasn’t.
One of the neatest features is the suspension bridge over Pochuck Creek.
Ooh, it makes me wonder Ooh, it makes me wonder
The next section I deemed the middle, and it roughly started at the bike path at Canal Road. It was here that the boardwalk ended, and I moved into the woods; hard-packed dirt and a wide trail. Due to the constant shade, it was noticeably cooler on this section.
Also, there were a handful of stiles to go over the fences; though some of the fences were missing. (I still went over the stiles when I could.)
The stile above deposited you into a farm where there were cows (not until my way back.) And yes, you had to watch where you walked.
And yes, that’s Wawayanda Mountain in the background. Imposing.
There’s a feeling I get When I look to the west And my spirit is crying for leaving In my thoughts I have seen Rings of smoke through the trees And the voices of those who standing looking
Upon crossing the last stile you’re deposited in the roadway. Be careful crossing, cars go flying by. (There’s also a dairy farm a short trip up the road, I didn’t stop, it was too crowded.) Here, for a small lot, there were a ton of cars. All of these people were just climbing the mountain to head to Pinwheel Vista. I apologize, there are not too many pictures of the climb up….you’ll understand in a minute.
These pictures don’t do it justice. And really, there are a lot of “stairs.” A. LOT. Plus, in some sections it gets pretty steep. I didn’t break out the poles because there were sections where you needed at least one hand in addition to your feet to climb. Looking at my split times, this section had the slowest time. Parts of it were brutal. And it was slow going with the number of people out today.
And it’s whispered that soon, If we all call the tune Then the piper will lead us to reason And a new day will dawn For those who stand long And the forests will echo with laughter
You’ll know you’ve reached the top when you reach the humongous pile of rocks. Head to the left to get to Pinwheel Vista.
I, however, wanted to see the mailbox for AT thru hikers, which was less than a half-mile down the path.
Coming back from the mailbox, make a right at the pile of rocks and head to Pinwheel Vista. It is easy to see why this trail ranks so highly, the views are definitely worth it.
It was so clear I could see the High Point monument directly across from me (way in the distance.) And you could just barely see Mt. Tammany in the Water Gap. I sat for quite a while, as it was an exhausting climb and I needed water and something to eat.
If there’s a bustle in your hedgerow Don’t be alarmed now It’s just a spring clean for the May queen Yes, there are two paths you can go by But in the long run There’s still time to change the road you’re on And it makes me wonder
To get back, retrace your steps. I left Pinwheel Vista at the perfect time, a little before noon. There was an endless stream of people coming up – switchbacks were jammed up, basically with traffic jams. And I saw people on those rocks with flipflops and crocs and no water or anything to eat. I tried to keep a good pace going down, but didn’t want to overtake the family in front of me. Two little girls were bounding on the rocks until one pulled up sharply and shrieked.
A New Jersey Black Rat snake. I got a good picture and high tailed it out of there.
I think I stopped counting around 300 people that I passed, and it surely had to be more.
Your head is humming and it won’t go In case you don’t know The piper’s calling you to join him Dear lady, can you hear the wind blow? And did you know Your stairway lies on the whispering wind?
On the way back down I was able to stop at Annie’s Bluff, which was packed with people when I was climbing. It was a limited view, but nice none-the-less.
Upon reaching the bottom it was a relatively flat return to the car. However, the cows were out.
And I spotted this guy basking in the sun.
There were tons of people on the boardwalk and I got back to my car around 1:00. The road was packed and there were people still showing up, I suspect many were only walking the boardwalk.
And as we wind on down the road Our shadows taller than our soul There walks a lady we all know Who shines white light and wants to show How everything still turns to gold And if you listen very hard The tune will come to you at last When all are one and one is all To be a rock and not to roll And she’s buying a stairway to Heaven
All in all, this was a great hike; it’s easy to see why this hike ranks so highly in polls. The Pochuck Valley and middle sections are easy enough, you will work hard on “the Stairs.” But the payoff is worth it. The trail is super easy to follow, it’s the Appalachian Trail. Supposedly the trail to the vista is blazed blue, but I didn’t see any blazes.
My only concern is the amount of litter on the trail, presumably a factor of the amount of people. I saw masks, paper towels, tissues, etc. In fact, I kept my mask on from the time I left the Vista until I reached my car due to the number of people. If you can do this hike mid-week or in sub optimal weather, do it. I had no solitude today.
Thanks to Robert, Jimmy, John, and John for allowing me this cliche comparison.
I had been to this park before, though the other side of the street. Back in 2017, I hiked Pyramid Mountain with my dad in the rain – rain for most of the hike. It looked like a higher chance of rain on Sunday, so I made this a Saturday hike. I arrived at the parking lot at 8:30 in the morning, and it was already packed, so I had to park on Mars Court, across the street. Be careful parking here, you can only park on one side of the streets; and businesses have ominous signs in their lots. I was surprised it was that packed that early, though it was a really nice day. I believe I was the fourth car on Mars Court (and when I returned, there were cars all the way down the street, and on 511 south of the park.) That’s why there is a gap between my starting and ending points on my map, above. Almost everyone was on Pyramid Mountain, I had Turkey Mountain virtually to myself.
I like this park: trails are wide (for the most part) made up of mostly dirt and rocks. There is great signage and trails are very well marked (except when the turn symbol is on a blowdown.) I noticed at major trail junctions there were cairns, so it was kind of hard to get lost.
I wasn’t planning on taking the red trail right at the beginning, but I thought I saw a viewpoint on the map. About 300 yards in, I ran into:
There were numerous blowdowns all through the park, most easily navigable.
While scrambling in the lower portion of the park, it started to get HOT and very humid. Unlike High Point, I had to zip off the lower portion of my pants. Not my favorite thing to do, as I’m susceptible to poison ivy, and it’s too easy to get ticks from the fields and high grass. And no one needs to see my legs.
If you follow the route I took, you will cross the powercut at least four times. Twice you will go right under towers. I wasn’t totally prepared for that, as at the first tower, you could hear buzzing.
This guy almost got stepped on.
Following the Yellow trail along the roadside, it suddenly comes out on the road.
Fortunately, it’s pretty well marked, right after the guardrail, make a left into the woods. (I noticed a pullout parking spot for one car at this spot.)
At this point, you are heading up Turkey Mountain, I believe to the highest point in the park on this side of 511. While the trail is wide, I ran into a stone wall that crosses the trail.
When Yellow T-intersects with Red, I took a quick detour to the right to find the actual top of Turkey Mountain. I couldn’t find a marker, but GPS confirmed that I did in fact reach the highest point. I retraced my steps, and continued on Red. There’s a steep descent where you run into Green. Then a steep ascent, at the top of which are stone ruins. This area, at one time, was a limestone quarry.
Following Green you come to a great spot overlooking Lake Vallhalla. There are numerous overlooks along this route, however with the leaves out, many overlooks did not have views.
Finally, I followed Green until Blue, which traveled uphill and up the powercut. There were some great views from the base of the powerline tower.
This was the beginning of the 100 Stairs, the path down to the road and back to the car. In the bright, hot and humid sun, this was tough. In the Fall, it’s probably great. On a hot and humid day, it’s strenuous.
All in all this was a great hike. There were a couple of rock hops that probably are trickier in the spring with more water flowing. Also, it was nice to come back to this park on a day where it wasn’t raining. When I got back to my car, the street was packed, but I noticed more people returning from Pyramid Mountain.
Shakedown hike! I’ve been to Holmdel Park countless times, it’s about 20 minutes from my house. But, after my last couple of hikes I had to make some changes and this seemed like a great place to a) hike a trail I haven’t been on, and b) test out some new gear.
First: For Father’s Day I was given money to purchase trekking poles. After coming down the steep section of the mountain on the Green trail in Apshawa Preserve, I realized I should probably try trekking poles. I realize that they seem to be a polarizing issue; you either love them or hate them. I can see pros and cons, but if they truly make it a little more comfortable, I’m game. I purchased a pair of Cascade Mountain Tech Trekking poles, cork handles and lever locks.
Second: After the debacle with the boots I figured it was time to upgrade to newer boots. My previous boots were L. L. Bean boots, of about twenty years; though used the most during the past five. I know there rages two debates, boots or trail runners, and waterproof or non-waterproof. Ultimately, I think I’ll move to trail runners at some point, to save the weight, however; given where I hike and the sheer amount of rocks I went with a more traditional boot. And, I went with non-waterproof as they will dry quicker. My choice was Merrell Moab 2 Vents, and a ridiculous deal from Amazon.
So, this hike was to break in new boots and learn how to effectively use trekking poles.
The boots are awesome, they barely need breaking in. They are extremely comfortable and a noticeable upgrade from my last boots. As for the poles, it took me a mile or two to really get them right. I’m sure I looked pretty spastic to the people coming the other way as I was trying to get into the right rhythm with them. My verdict, I like them. Certainly, on flat sections I get into a good rhythm and can make good (better) time. Plus, there is an upper body workout as well. Holmdel park isn’t known for elevation changes, but I did get to climb and descent some small hills; and I definitely see advantages to the poles. They’ll make rock hopping and stream crossings easier, though I don’t know how much they’ll get used during scrambles.
As for the hike…this was a typical Monmouth County Park System hike. There were very few blazes, mostly markers telling you which way the trail went. And there were plenty of unmarked trails. Trails were wide and well used, so it is very hard to actually get lost, though I found it difficult staying to my plan. More than once I had to turn around.
One of the neatest aspects of this section of Holmdel Park is that the park follows Ramanessin Brook which is known to have shark’s teeth and fossils in it. While walking along the southern portion of the Steeplechase trail I came across a person who had a couple.
I hiked down to the water to check it out. I would like to come back and walk the brook and see what’s actually there as the brook is shallow and easily walk-able, and on a hot summer day will feel great. I’ve heard that there are more fossils and teeth at Big Brook Park.
By the end of the hike I was pretty proficient with the poles and will be happy to bring them on future hikes. And the boots were great. I didn’t realize that the Ramanessin area had it’s own pull-out lot, which would have shaved about three quarters of a mile off the hike. I parked in the main Longstreet Farm lot, which was starting to get full by the time I returned.
Trails: Iris, Appalachian, Monument/Shawangunk Ridge, Cedar Swamp
This would be some hike. I believe that this would be the furthest I drive for a hike in New Jersey as this was a long drive; but a really nice day. I had never been to High Point or the monument even though it is widely known. The monument is not open due to the pandemic, it is unlikely that I would have climbed it even if it was open. Forget the fact that I would have just come up a steep section of the Monument/Shawangunk Ridge trail, I’m not sure I could do the steps.
I started this hike at the Appalachian Trail pull off lot, which was good-sized and empty by the time I got there. I took the connector to the Iris trail, which is part of the Appalachian Trail until Route 23 and the park office. I was a little disoriented when I came to Route 23 as I knew I had to cross the road, but I wasn’t sure where the trail picked up. It became very obvious.
The next section on the Appalachian Trail was pretty strenuous, and I was beginning to think of the other week at Apshawa. Lots and lots of rocks. And some pretty steep sections as well. I usually hike in long pants to keep the ticks/bugs off me. They are the pants that zip off above the knees to convert to shorts. It was pretty warm, around 85, and somewhat humid; I considered zipping them off when I got to the monument for some relief. I found the observation deck on the AT and rested a moment before the next leg – which consisted of a descent into a small valley, then a hike uphill to the monument.
The Appalachian Trail will meet the Monument/Shawangunk Ridge Trail, and that’s where I left the Appalachian. There is one section of this trail that runs straight uphill to the back of the monument. The rest at the top was totally worth it. It was here that I thought I would convert my pants to shorts, but after sitting for a few minutes I started to realize it was a little chilly. It’s a perfect spot for a snack and by the time I had finished eating, people watching, wandering around the monument I was cooled off. I took a picture looking back at the observation deck.
Be advised that there is a parking lot about 100 yards from the monument and it gets crowded. I know I got some looks from people as I emerged from the trail dripping with sweat and probably looking like I would collapse.
Here’s where it got interesting for me. I wanted to continue on the Monument/Shawangunk Ridge trail to find the Cedar Swamp trail. Monument/Shawangunk Ridge continues on the other side of the parking lot. While crossing the parking lot I felt something flapping on my left boot. I took a look and I could see where the boot was separating from the sole. Sigh. Now what? I’m a little under two miles in. It has gotten partly cloudy, to the point that rain may be arriving. And I have a boot that may be failing. Looking at the topo map I saw that there wasn’t too much elevation change. My questions would be a) what if really started raining? and b) could I make it back over the AT if I needed to?
I decided to press on.
Not a bad decision. I just had to manage that left boot. Which held up pretty well. At a break, I looked at the right boot, and I could see where it too was starting to fail. Granted, these boots were almost 20 years old, but only used heavily the last five years.
I found the Cedar Swamp trail and completed that circuit. Backwards I found out. Typically that trail starts from the parking lot east of Lake Marcia. The park has set the trail direction as clockwise. I entered the trail from the Monument/Shawangunk Ridge trail, didn’t see signs, and walked counter-clockwise. Fortunately, I didn’t see many people, but wondered why I got funny looks from the people I did pass. When I got to the trail “start” I saw the signs for the temporary directions. The Cedar Swamp trail was nice, cool, relatively level, and very different from the surrounding terrain.
I finished the loop and got back on the Monument/Shawangunk Ridge trail to complete my loop back towards the AT. Where the Shawangunk Ridge trails bears right to New York I stopped to take a picture at one of the view points. I believe that’s Port Jervis in the distance.
I continued on the Monument Trail. After a little bit I noticed some good elevation changes, one of which became pretty rocky. And, my left boot was becoming worse. I quickly realized I was going to have to make some decisions soon. Coming out of the woods, I followed the trail down to Marcia Lake. The sun was out, it was a little warmer so I stopped to eat and rest again. There’s a beach at the far end, and it was packed with people; some swimming in the lake.
Looking at my boot I realized I would not make it back over the AT. I decided to road walk the rest of the way back. And honestly, even without the boot problem, this might have been the better decision as the walk around the lake was extremely pleasant, albeit warmer.
After exiting the park I had a short road walk on Route 23 south, probably a quarter mile or so. About 300 yards from the AT parking lot, the boot and sole separated. I am extremely thankful it happened here, rather than on the trail somewhere. Big lesson learned – I’m now carrying a small role of duct tape for these kinds of situations.
I really enjoyed this hike, I’d like to come back and hike some of the southern area from the parking lot. The mental stress of the hike was certainly a distraction, but being better prepared on my part would alleviate that. The AT parking lot was not full when I returned and is a great place to park if you don’t want to pay the fees and/or don’t mind the the extra walk.
I’m calling it now, this hike will be in the top five at the end of the year, if not the top spot. This was a great hike, and is a great place to visit and hike. It did not hurt that the weather was perfect: sunny, barely a cloud in the sky and very low 70s. To me, this hike has it all: some steep terrain, lakes, cascades and waterfalls, ruins, and great views.
The state of New Jersey is slowly re-opening and I looked for a hike that might be out of the way with less people. I can’t remember where I learned of Apshawa Preserve, my best bet is NJHiking.com. I left early, as usual, and by the time I got to the parking lot, I was almost the last car in; there were lots of people early in the morning. In the lot, there was a large group of loud people, only a few masked. I let them start off ahead of me hoping to give them a good head start while I snapped a picture of the trail kiosk. And this great picture:
I haven’t seen a bear while hiking. I’d like to, but from a distance. It was not to be today. To enter the park, you have to pass through a gate in a fence, which I read is used to keep the deer out. I didn’t see any deer in the park, so I would say it is effective. In I went.
It was all uphill to start, which was fun. It didn’t take me long to catch up to that large group, I could hear them while walking and figured I would catch them sooner or later. I figured I would pass them, but we got caught in a bottleneck – where the trail descends a rock scramble. I let them take their time with that while checked out the view. One in their group was playing music through their phone, one was on their phone trying to send pictures to someone. I started to plan where I wanted to pass them, but luckily, did not have to. I turned onto white, which went straight uphill. I slowly lost their noise, and was rewarded with views from the top.
White descended steeply to junction with Red. This would be the trail around Butler Reservoir and had some amazing views of the water. I would have liked to have circumnavigated yellow, but the trail is closed due to beaver activity.
I must have missed the actual trail between the two sections of the reservoir. I was probably walking on a small footpath when I realized I had to cross a small stream. I couldn’t believe the trail would present this path to casual hikers.
I crossed without issue. And after walking about 20 feet on the other side, I saw where the “real” trail rock hopped across the stream. Either way seemed fun.
Some views of the reservoir:
Mountain Laurel were still in bloom and could be found in numerous locations.
On the southwestern side of the reservoir I met up with the large group of hikers. They were looking for the waterfall, which I knew to be on the Green trail. I let them know, but they were dedicated to going around the reservoir. Shortly after, I met up with a hiking group with their dogs, all unleashed. When they saw me they started to leash up the dogs but I was mostly by them by the time the dogs were all leashed. I’m a dog person, so don’t mind them, but I would rather they be leashed.
After a brief rest on the rocks in the middle of the reservoir, I headed to the green trail. This went up, steeply. There was a great view at the top that was probably much better without the vegetation. The peak was the highest point in Apshawa Presever, and I’ll say, it was a nice long ascent. The descent, though, was a different story. There were two or three switchbacks, but it felt like it was straight down the fall-line and my knees felt it. Here’s what that section looks like in Caltopo, the switchbacks are in the center, and you can see the contour lines.
I rested at the cascades of Apshawa Brook.
A little ways up the trail (and uphill) I came to the ruins of the old water purification system. What’s not shown are the massive tanks sitting by the brook.
Up the steep hill to the waterfall of Apshawa Brook.
From here I followed Green until it met back with Blue, and took that back to the car. Upon reaching the parking lot I noticed that there were police directing the flow of traffic.
This is a great place to hike and I highly recommend it; it has something for everyone. I hiked as long as I could, but there were numerous paths and circuits to make the hike as long and rugged as you like, or not. My advice is to get there early as the lot fills up.
Another hike while still “shut down.” Great Swamp is another park that is a relatively short drive from home, so I figured I would explore this. Reading about it in 50 Hikes of New Jersey (the really old edition,) I noticed that they called out that this would be one of the wettest hikes in their book that you would undertake. Further, it rained the night before I went up. However, it was bright and sunny, so I figured this would be interesting.
And interesting it was. There are two longish out-and-back hikes that have separate trailheads. I planned on walking the longer one. After parking and getting ready, I walked in…only to find shin-deep mud. I bushwacked and stayed as dry as possible, looking for passable routes. Nope, none. After about a quarter mile (and an hour of walking) I turned around and sought the other trail head. Unfortunately, it was much the same. I don’t mind a little mud, but the hiking was long for such a short distance, and upon scouting what was in front of me, it didn’t appear to be getting better, on the contrary; it was getting worse.
I realize the park is a wildlife refuge, and as such trails are not “maintained” to the degree that other parks maintain trails. The trails and the park are left to nature. I resolved to come back another day, such as after a week of no rain – maybe it would dry out a little.
On the way out of the park I passed the visitor’s center, and happened to see a trailhead out of the corner of my eye. So, turning around, I parked and investigated. It was too nice a day to drive the distance I did for nothing. I found the White Oak trail, which was a short loop right across from the the parking lot. This trail was split between a meadow walk and a short jaunt into the woods.
After the number of people I saw in the parks last week, I thought I would find something a little more off the beaten path, so to say. For this trip, I headed to Sourland Mountain Preserve, and the famed Devil’s Half Acre. Sourland Preserve is known for its bouldering, both in the Devil’s Half Acre and by the Roaring Brook. There were more cars in the parking lot at 9:00 a.m. than I expected but still plenty of spaces.
Trails are mostly dirt, with some roots, and lots and lots of rocks.
After about 100 yards, the trails would be exclusively
And that is not a lot, by comparison.
The boulders in the Devil’s Half Acre were huge, and there were lots of people all over them. I did not partake: a) there were too many people, not many masked, and b) I wasn’t really dressed for it. But it was cool to see. The trails around these boulders were not well marked, as evidence by my map. If you look at the northern-most part of my map, you’ll see where it appears I went around in circles. I did. AllTrails didn’t really help either. I almost broke out the compass. Once I figured out where to go, it was smooth sailing from then on.
After turning on the Roaring Brook trail, the path became mostly rock.
From here to the end there were numerous small creek crossing that entailed fairly easy rock hopping. It was also at this point that the sun became blazing hot. Surprisingly, I had to pass through, not one, but two chain link fences – I suspect the same fence in two locations. And after looking at the map, my guess is the fence is the town border. Also, I had to cut across a pipeline cut twice.
When the Roaring Brook meets back with the Ridge trail it is mostly downhill and more level terrain. At this point I started meeting more people, probably 80/20 masked; and I came across a group with unleashed dogs.
Getting back to the parking lot around noon I noticed it was packed. In fact, closed. I’m sure a great many of the people were bouldering, as I did not see many people on the trails away from the big rocks. People by the lake were not social distancing. And at least one car followed my back to my car for my space. While it was great in the woods, the parking lot was another story all together. This was a great hike, though, and I would definitely come back.